![]() But the only one who can write that manuscript is Sialelli himself. What this collection did illuminate is that Lanvin’s newly crowned prince has the potential to transition the house from its dark age to a new phase of relative expressive enlightenment. Whether it is inventiveness or insecurity, all should become clearer in future collections (Lanvin’s bracingly Red Wedding approach to human resources depending). Initially opened as a millinery in 1889, the brand expanded into a full-fledged fashion. The from-every-angle blitzkrieg of variety in the collection can be seen either as the fruits of a boundlessly fertile mind or as a bloatedness borne of lack of focus compounded by a lack of confidence in any of the many subsections in this collection. As one of the oldest French fashion houses still in existence, Lanvin is founded on the concept of family. This is understandable in this first instance. So, while Sialelli most certainly served a diverse spread, excellently executed, much of it felt marinated in the aesthetic of another place-his previous employer, Loewe. The collection also included both-gender twinsets, minidresses, and shirts featuring Babar and Zephir (another beautiful French institution with a questionable narrative), a series of layered slip dresses with patched extra hems at the back that sometimes came embroidered with foxes, a very fine purple bobbled dress (vaguely caftan-y in mien) and, we’re nearly there, a final segue through some vaguely ’70s-looking illustrations and print on the closing pieces.Īnd, exhale. George and the Dragon print that also popped up on pochettes and as an embroidery on a backless, rope-choker-neck dress. These included woolen jackets with sailor collars and leather ties pea jackets with quilt-piped, heart-shaped lapels double-hemmed kilts in mismatched checks tricksy, check blanket ponchos and foulard smocks for him and her in a manuscript-style St. ![]() His debut was a collection that was eager to please: a huge all-you-can-eat buffet of ideas. To make way for Sialelli, Lanvin’s kingmakers most recently jettisoned their only functioning creative limb, menswear designer Lucas Ossendrijver, in a manner utterly unbecoming of the codes of honor, courtliness, and gentilesse that were so fetishized when this venue was built. Lanvin’s ancient history is as beautiful as its recent history is ugly: Since 2015, its womenswear timeline has been bloodier than Game of Thrones. ![]() ![]() Which made you think: While no new designer should be judged by the backstory of the house that’s hired him or her, this was an environment conducive to the contemplation of the past. We were gathered to witness his coronation in the original Gothic 14th-century townhouse once inhabited by the abbots of Cluny, now home to France’s National Museum of the Middle Ages. Drums boomed and trumpets blared to fanfare the ascension of Bruno Sialelli to the Lanvin throne. It was going to be a tough competition-or, in ballroom parlance, a stern set.It was a bright new dawn on the Boulevard Saint-Germain. Thaddeus and a number of other contestants were barred by the judges from competing, with one stopping in the middle of the runway, seemingly unbothered by the dismissal as her house members chanted her name on the sidelines. The genderbending contestant was in a custom-built short suit that they had molded onto their body from an atelier in Houston, Texas as well as a vintage Fendi belt, a pair of Thom Browne bags, and a slew of Vivienne Westwood and Schiaparelli brooches. “You don’t see a show stopping piece?!” Thaddeus from the House of Gorgeous Gucci, asked the panel about their look after politely snatching the mic. And as such, the judges weren’t pulling any punches. That bounty, at “X … The Story” ball, would be the largest prize for a fashion category in the history of the ballroom scene. The category called for a “fashion orgasm.” After stamping their name for a decade as a leading house in ballroom for fashion, the House of Xclusive Lanvin ( one-time collaborators with the brand of the same name) was looking for the ultimate fashion assassin and was prepared to hand out a trophy and a cash prize of $7,000 to them on Saturday night.
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